Wednesday, November 27, 2019

The Design of Chicago

A little more than a year ago, on Labor Day weekend 2018, the Chicago Architecture Foundation opened a new location beside the Main Branch of the Chicago River, which came with a new name for the organization: the Chicago Architecture Center.

During the opening weekend, I went to visit the new location.  I entered a contest as part of opening weekend, and won prizes, including a free one-year membership and tickets for an architectural river cruise.

If there's one thing that's worth splurging on in Chicago, it would be a CAC architectural river cruise, which is #90 on my Illinois 200 list.

I had gone on an architectural river cruise before for a field trip shortly before I graduated from OPRF High School, while in Ms. North's History of Chicago class.  From the dock at Michigan Avenue, we went west on the Main Branch of the Chicago River to Wolf Point (#91), the "Y" where the North and South Branches meet the Main Branch, and then went on the South Branch to a spot near Adams before turning around and heading back to the Main Branch.  Then, we went through the Chicago Lock (#92), and out about 3/4 mile into Lake Michigan.

For my prize of two free tickets for a river cruise, my brother Eric accepted my offer to join me for a nighttime cruise (#93).  We went down the South Branch to around Harrison Street, and up the North Branch to near Chicago Avenue, right by the Chicago Tribune Freedom Center, where the Chicago Tribune and other papers are printed.  We also went east on the Main Branch to the harbor near Navy Pier.  It was fabulous seeing the buildings lit up at night, including the Merchandise Mart (#94) with its new art display (#95) projected in lights on the river-facing side of the building.  We also learned about the various efforts to create new developments along the river.

Throughout the past year, I also used my winnings to partake of the CAC's offerings, which include many architectural walking tours.

Soon after getting making my membership prize official, Mom and I went on a tour of the Chicago Board of Trade Building (#96), which included a visit to the vault.

About a week later, I went on a tour of Palmer House Hotel (#97), one of Chicago's most famous and fancy hotels.

Next up was a tour of the Chicago Pedway (#98), particularly the western portions.  I've used the pedway many times as a convenient way to escape less favorable weather and the streets above the city as I get around the Loop.  We started our tour in the James R. Thompson State of Illinois Center building (#99).  Then we went into Chicago City Hall (#100), and went by Cook County Offices, right by the Daley Center (#101).

Next we passed through Block 37 (#102), a commercial establishment, which I remember many years ago was an empty lot with an ice skating rink.  It is on the west side of State Street, across from the old Marshall Field's Store (#103).

Next up heading east is an interesting sight, with a swimming pool right off the pedway, connected with a health fitness club.

Then we reached the Chicago Cultural Center (#104), which was built as Chicago's first library.  Next door is the Millennium Station (#105), with a sophisticated modernistic design to befit the name of Millennium Park (#106) above it.

We wound our way by the Prudential Building (#107) and ended up at the Aqua Hotel, with a spectacular lobby.  I also went with a group that did a post-tour extension walk to the Illinois Center (#108) and the CAC.

It was a rather cold day I went on that tour, so it was great to go on it, since it spends so much time indoors, underground.

A couple days later, I went to see the sights open for Open House Chicago weekend (#109), which I think is one of the best events in Chicagoland, and is totally worth participating in, even for just an hour or two to see a couple of sites.

During my few hours out with Mom, we started at the old Chicago Post Office.  Then we visited a number of buildings with great views from high up, some of them with rooftop terraces.

Later, in November, I went on a tour of Chicago Union Station.  We had the chance to see some of the lounges located near the Great Hall, and look at the artistic designs throughout the Great Hall.

A few months later, with summer well underway, I went on the Historic Skyscrapers tour.  We wound our way around the Loop to look at some of the examples of the earliest skyscrapers that were built in the latter portion of the 19th Century.  They include the Auditorium Theater (#110), the Rookery (#111), and the Marquette Building (#112).  While no longer present in the Loop, the Home Insurance Building's (#113) influence is still felt, as it was the first skyscraper built in Chicago, the head of the line in pioneers that sought to build onward and upward toward the sky.  Buildings could reach greater heights by using a metal skeleton frame.  The Home Insurance Building is one example of the work of William Le Baron Jenney (#114).  One the site now sits the Field Building (#115), with a swanky Art Deco hallway.

Next up, I went on the North Side Elevated Art with Mom.  It was fascinating to stop at various stations along the Brown Line corridor from the Loop up to Belmont to see the artwork in the stations (#116).

Later, on a very hot day in July, Mom and I went to the Chicago Riverwalk to hear talks from CAC docents about how the history of the Chicago River, including the engineering work done on the waterway, and the buildings that went up along it.

I went to tour the Merchandise Mart, which is along the Chicago River, later in July.

Then, in August, I went on the Millenium Park tour.  Ever since the summer before I was in 8th grade, when it opened, I've been rather fascinated by the park.  It has great amenities and very notable architecture, like the Pritzker Pavilion (#117), the BP Bridge (#118) going across Columbus Drive, the Lurie Garden (#119), the Crown Fountain (#120), Harris Theater (#121), and Cloud Gate (#122), also known as the Bean.  Notably, there's a waterway in the Lurie Garden with walls that mimick the limestone wall design of the Illinois and Michigan Canal (#123).

Later in August, I went on the Loop Elevated Architecture tour.  We stopped at various stations to look at the architectural elements of note, starting with one of the newest CTA stations, Washington/Wabash (#124).  We got off by the Harold Washington Library (#125) to view the building and station there.  Subsequently, we got off at Quincy to view the classy olden architecture of that station (#126).  And our final stop was at Clinton, just outside the Loop, to view the sights around there.

I also took advantage of the Frank Lloyd Wright (#127) tour, in my own neck of the woods during Labor Day weekend 2019.  Starting at his home and studio along Chicago Avenue (#128), we walked around the nearby neighborhood, mostly along Forest Avenue, to view houses he had designed, which represent the Prairie style of architecture that he developed (#129).  A truly lovely spot in that area is the block along the short stretch of Elizabeth Court (#130).  Also of note is a ticket booth from the 1893 World's Columbian Exposition in the yard of the Hills-DeCaro House next door to the Nathan G. Moore House, with Tudor architecture.

I had the chance to visit another lovely neighborhood, for the first time, when I joined the Beverly South architecture tour, in the South Side neighborhood of Beverly (#130).  One landmark of note is the Glivins Castle (#131).  There are also many fine homes, representing a great variety of architectural styles.  There's even a Wright-designed American System-Built House (#132).

Later in September, my parents and I went on the Oakwoods Cemetery (#133) tour.  Among the notable people buried there include athlete Jesse Owens (#134), Ebony magazine founder John J. Johnson (#135); Bishop Henry Louis Ford (#136), a Chicago religious leader whose name is on the Bishop Ford Expressway on I-94 south of 95th Street; activist Ida B. Well-Barnett (#137), and Harold Washington (#138), Chicago's first African-American mayor.

At the start of October, I went on the Chinatown (#139) tour.  We walked up and down Wentworth Avenue to view the architecture of the buildings, many of which house businesses.  We also stopped by St. Therese Church (#140), once built as a parish for Italian immigrants, and it still retains Italian architectural elements, even as it's outfitting with Chinese architectural touches and now serves Chinese-Americans.  We also went inside the Chinatown Branch of the Chicago Public Library (#141), with a very distinct architectural design of a round building and glass all over.  We ended our tour at Chinatown Plaza (#142), a newer commercial development along Archer Avenue.

Later in October, I enjoyed OHC again, with plenty more great rooftop views, particularly at the Prudential building overlooking Millenium Park, as well as 1 N. Dearborn, a commercial building at Dearborn and Madison, which contributed significantly to the thriving business activities in the Loop business district.

I have to give a lot of credit to the CAC for its many wonderful offerings that allow people to take in the sites of Chicago, and appreciate the architectural elements.  It's a great way for people visiting Chicago to see what's here.

But I've enjoyed it as someone who lives in this area, because it's an opportunity for me to appreciate what's in my own neck of the woods by spending time visiting what's here.

And I have to hand it to the amazing group of CAC docents (#143), who, through a very involved training process, know so much about Chicago's architecture, and can help anyone who lives near or far away, embrace the architecture that's here and why it's significant.

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